Year after year, Europe is on the minds of countless travelers, from postgrad backpackers to culturally curious retirees to families on summer vacation. One country, however, remains under the radar despite occupying prime real estate in the Mediterranean: Albania. Located north of Greece and south of Montenegro, this majority-Muslim nation in the Balkans boasts age-old traditions, a charming coastline, and a cuisine driven by locally sourced ingredients.
Then there’s the ancient code of honor, besa, translating to the kind of hospitality that can restore one’s faith in humanity. And because Albania isn’t part of the Schengen Area, the independent e-visa process is a breeze to navigate. Another bonus: it’s yet to be overrun by mass tourism, so visitors can still enjoy untamed beauty across the country—outdoorsy types tend to hit the popular hiking trails in the Albanian Alps up north, while leisure seekers are more drawn to the picturesque Albanian Riviera in the south. As for what makes it especially fascinating? A highly unusual past. If you are planning a trip, these are the best places to visit in Albania.
Tirana
To truly appreciate Albania is to understand its backstory, and the vibrant capital of Tirana makes for a great base to learn about why it is the land of bunkers. Oh-so-many bunkers. An exact figure is impossible to determine (some have been recycled, others destroyed), but records claim there are somewhere between 175,000 and 750,000 of these abandoned concrete mushrooms in existence in Tirana. Personifying the paranoia that defined the communist leadership of Enver Hoxha from 1944 until his death in 1985, they were built following World War II in strategic locations like clifftops, but also in fields, on street corners, and along coastlines in case of a raid by enemies—enemies that ultimately proved illusory. And with Hoxha withdrawing Albania from international politics and economic trade agreements entirely, it only reopened its doors to tourists after the fall of communism in 1991.
Today, many of the surviving bunkers have evolved into social and cultural spaces like lounges, bars, pizzerias, tattoo parlors, and artist studios, showcasing the ingenuity of modern-day Albanians. In Tirana, for example, one of the bigger bunkers now stands as Bunk’Art 2, a 24-room museum that reconstructs the history of the Ministry of Internal Affairs from 1912 to 1991, by recreating its interrogation cells, vivid imagery, and art installations. The exhibits and details comprise a genuinely engaging space. The city is also home to House of Leaves, an intriguing museum occupying the building that was once used by the Gestapo during World War II, before serving as part of the relentless surveillance tactics of the communist state’s political police, Sigurimi—yet another cruel persecution tool employed by Hoxha.
Smaller in scale but equally worth visiting is the open-air museum of Postbllok (Checkpoint). Here, three poignant exhibits is all it takes to highlight the atrocities of Hoxha’s communist regime. Take the time to linger by the deeply personal abstract sculpture artist Ardian Isufi and writer Fatos Lubonja designed using concrete girders from the Stalinist-inspired Spaç labor camp. Lubonja served a total of 17 years after authorities accused him of criticizing the Hoxha government, participating in an alleged plot against the state, and possessing banned materials. Interestingly, the trendy district of Blloku is located around the corner, showcasing the effortlessly cool side of Tirana—symbols of social progress and economic development are unapologetically interspersed with reminders of a troubled past. Head to the eclectic Komiteti to see this dichotomy in action. Between homemade raki (an aniseed-flavored alcoholic beverage), live jazz sessions, and a display of 17,000 antiques historical items like antiques and traditional costumes, this café-museum hybrid is the perfect place to mingle with young locals, many of whom have strong opinions on what it means to live in a more liberal—and increasingly ambitious—Albania.
Tirana’s thriving dining scene is also a sign of the times. Between the abundance of Mediterranean produce and the warmth of Balkan gastronomy—coupled with Ottoman influences—Albanian cuisine is both multi-faceted and central to the country’s identity, but its revival hasn’t come easily. Alongside nearly half a century of political oppression, the Communist government also restricted the consumption of meat and dairy, inevitably resulting in the loss of cooking traditions over time. At Mullixhiu, however, chef-founder Bledar Kola of Noma fame is on a mission to research and reinterpret Albania’s culinary heritage. Recognized by 50 Best Discovery, the tasting menu at this slow food institution features a roster of culinary greatest hits—eight courses that include delicate, flaky trout from the Cem river and fli, a multi-layered pastry with pastoral roots.
Berat or Gjirokastër?
Both historical cities make for excellent contenders when it comes to exploring the Ottoman Albania period, an influence that continues to be felt to this day—with the Ottoman Empire enjoying a reign of more than 600 years, it profoundly influenced everything from cuisine and religion to governance. And while day trips from Tirana to Berat and Gjirokastër are doable, making more room in your itinerary to explore is worthwhile.
But—if you only have time for one—our recommendation is to head to Gjirokastër. Aptly nicknamed the “City of Stone,” it might as well take center stage in a fairytale. Steep cobblestone streets guide visitors up to the imposing Gjirokastër Castle, one of the biggest in the Balkans, for unmatched views of the Gjerë Mountains and Drino Valley. The climb, although somewhat strenuous, is part of the experience—a landscape of greenery and perfectly preserved Ottoman architecture is interrupted only by stray dogs vying for a spot in the shade and the occasional elderly woman hawking freshly picked coltsfoot flowers for tea. You’ll have to pry yourself away from the atmospheric Old Bazaar first.
Sarandë or Himarë?
Extending nearly 296 miles along the Adriatic and Ionian seas (the two meet at the port town of Vlorë), Albania’s coastline offers something for every type of traveler thanks to its sheer range of crumbling ruins, picturesque villages, natural wonders, secret beaches, and bustling urban centers. The country’s public transport system can be unreliable, so you’re better off booking a private taxi to the Albanian Riviera, or Bregu, as it is colloquially known. But before heading off, you have your choice of base.
The tourism hub of Sarandë is home to sprawling resorts, upscale restaurants like Nám and Black Marlin, boat tour operators, and a lively promenade, all bordering a scenic horseshoe-shaped bay. In contrast, the former fishing village of Himarë is a lot more authentic in feel. And because it remains relatively untouched by urban development, it’s more suited to anyone in need of a little quiet. Whether you’re looking to indulge in some slow travel or something a bit more cosmopolitan and fast-paced, your pick of attractions in Sarandë awaits.
For nature-lovers, start at the Blue Eye, a spring surrounded by lush greenery and shrouded in mystery—no diver has ever been able to descend deeper than 165 feet due to fierce pressure from the underground spring, so its true depth remains unknown. And while swimming here is prohibited, the defiant do so anyway, despite the temperature hovering close to 50 degrees Fahrenheit year-round. True to its name, this natural monument is reminiscent of a human eye; blue-green waters surround what looks like a darker blue “pupil” owing to a sunken cave that pumps fresh water to the surface. One legend claims that the Blue Eye is actually the eye of a mythical snake that met its fate when it swallowed a donkey that was on fire.
Butrint is Albania’s most impressive archaeological treasure, and visitors can expect a vast repository of ruins echoing the former iterations of this UNESCO World Heritage site—Roman arches and Byzantine mosaics included. Considering it covers more than 200 hectares, those pressed for time should focus on making pit stops at the Dea of Butrint, a goddess statue which proudly features on postcards and magnets across Albania, and the ancient theater that continues to host festivals every summer. Elsewhere, aquatic adventures come guaranteed at Karaburun-Sazan National Marine Park, where canyons, steep cliffs, and mountains only add to this rich ecosystem. Hire a speedboat, and take the day to swim in its clear waters and snorkel to the Cave of Haxhi Ali, a karst cave named after a revered Bektashi dervish and saint in Albania.
The Albanian Riviera, is lined with beautiful beaches so you’ll be excused for never venturing beyond its shoreline—but not all beachfronts are created equal. In contrast to the crowded and pebbly shores of Sarandë is Gjipe Beach, recently voted one of the best beaches in the world. Located between Himarë and Dhermi, this remote stretch of white sand is flanked by soaring, rugged cliffs that speak of the captivating beauty that’s created by contrast. Admittedly, it isn’t easy to access (the hike’s not for everyone), so consider the sleepy coastal town of Ksamil instead.
A brief pedalo ride will take you from the mainland to this set of four islets. Umbrella and lounger rentals are limited in number, so get there early enough to lounge about in relative privacy. And if you prefer an afternoon of barefoot luxury, the Hotel Luxury is the place to be with its attentive service and wide-spanning views of the coastline. The stylish beach clubs across Bregu rival the best of their counterparts in Greece, but with a fraction of the crowds—for now.
